15 replies to this topic

[vulture]

It looks as if vitaminm might have beat me to it. On Edmunds website, there were numerous complaints about the late model Camry's and their acceleration lag. Unfortunately, this is a very common problem with 2006 and 07 Camry's from everything I've read.

[OEXCHAOS]

Tune up was about 2 weeks ago ... and part of the reason I got the tune up was because of a SLIGHT hesitation (was MUCH milder back then). I told the mechanic about it, but just assumed it would be improved after I paid them (no such luck). Situation has become progressively worse ... longer hesitation and I will definitely have to take it in again ... but just dislike giving them cart blanche.

Would prefer to have some idea as to what this might be.

I have a vague feeling that it has something to do with the fuel line ... but I'm no car expert. It's only a hunch.

Thanks for the comments guys,

C.C. (thanks outsider ... wrote the above before seeing your comments - appreciation to all of you)

Check the plug wires first. It's free and easy. I screwed around with hesitation for weeks. Put on a new fuel filter, did a hot soak. Checked the O2 sensor. Then I was poking around in there and noted a wire looked wrong. Totally unhooked.

If it's getting progressively worse, I'm smelling fuel filter or damaged O2 sensor.

This is like Click and Clack (and Clack, and Clack, and Clack....)

[LarryT]

Tune up was about 2 weeks ago ... and part of the reason I got the tune up was because of a SLIGHT hesitation (was MUCH milder back then). I told the mechanic about it, but just assumed it would be improved after I paid them (no such luck). Situation has become progressively worse ... longer hesitation and I will definitely have to take it in again ... but just dislike giving them cart blanche.

Would prefer to have some idea as to what this might be.

I have a vague feeling that it has something to do with the fuel line ... but I'm no car expert. It's only a hunch.

Thanks for the comments guys,

C.C. (thanks outsider ... wrote the above before seeing your comments - appreciation to all of you)

Check the plug wires first. It's free and easy. I screwed around with hesitation for weeks. Put on a new fuel filter, did a hot soak. Checked the O2 sensor. Then I was poking around in there and noted a wire looked wrong. Totally unhooked.

If it's getting progressively worse, I'm smelling fuel filter or damaged O2 sensor.

This is like Click and Clack (and Clack, and Clack, and Clack....)

Best bet is the TPS sensor (throttle position sensor) as they get a wear spot near idle. As you press on the accelerator you hit the faulty winding and the computer sees no voltage so no added fuel flow until the sensor hits good wiring then it takes off. Long time ago I was a Fuel injection/computer systems technician and TPS and mass air flow sensors were the most common problems for this problem.

Larry

[Mike McCarthy]

Have a Toyota Camry ... just got a tune up .... but it keeps hesitating when I step on the gas.

When I pedal down to accelerate, there is a significant time lag before it finally kicks in .... dangerous when one
is trying to enter traffic and the darn thing won't go.

Any wild guesses as to what this could be? Mechanic didn't say anything after tune up.

Thanks, C.C.

What year is the Camry? If it's anything newer than 1996 then it has OBDII (On Board Diagnostics Two) which involves the use of various sensors throughout the air/fuel/exhaust system and will report on many things that are not working correctly. OBD was originally designed for emission-related systems but now has expanded to include pretty much all running gear (and also bells and whistles -- some OBD systems report on entertainment, navigation, cabin climate, etc etc).

Like any system, it's garbage in garbage out. If wires are disconnected, or making a poor connection, or if there's a vacuum leak (common), or something is hooked up incorrectly, then OBDII will not report accurately. But, if all the wires and hoses are hookep up correctly then the OBDII will "throw a code" which can be very very specific (or maddeningly vague).

Most car parts retailers (AutoZone, Pep Boys, Grand Auto, etc) will read codes for free (they want to identify your problem and then sell you what's needed). I'd go to one of those stores and ask them to read the codes. If you get lucky you will find an eager young employee who actually likes cars who will not only read the codes but also make a cursory assessment of the tangle of wires and hoses and maybe spot something obvious.

Odds are pretty good that OBDII can diagnose the problem if everything is hooked up correctly. Or, to repeat myself, the fact that something is not hooked up correctly itself may be the problem.

Don't just randomly start replacing parts.....throttle position sensors, idle air control, various temp senders, OXS sensor. The list of usual suspects can be very long. You could spend $1000 on educated guesses. Use OBDII.

Edited by Mike McCarthy, 08 October 2008 - 01:57 PM.

[OEXCHAOS]

Tune up was about 2 weeks ago ... and part of the reason I got the tune up was because of a SLIGHT hesitation (was MUCH milder back then). I told the mechanic about it, but just assumed it would be improved after I paid them (no such luck). Situation has become progressively worse ... longer hesitation and I will definitely have to take it in again ... but just dislike giving them cart blanche.

Would prefer to have some idea as to what this might be.

I have a vague feeling that it has something to do with the fuel line ... but I'm no car expert. It's only a hunch.

Thanks for the comments guys,

C.C. (thanks outsider ... wrote the above before seeing your comments - appreciation to all of you)

Check the plug wires first. It's free and easy. I screwed around with hesitation for weeks. Put on a new fuel filter, did a hot soak. Checked the O2 sensor. Then I was poking around in there and noted a wire looked wrong. Totally unhooked.

If it's getting progressively worse, I'm smelling fuel filter or damaged O2 sensor.

This is like Click and Clack (and Clack, and Clack, and Clack....)

Best bet is the TPS sensor (throttle position sensor) as they get a wear spot near idle. As you press on the accelerator you hit the faulty winding and the computer sees no voltage so no added fuel flow until the sensor hits good wiring then it takes off. Long time ago I was a Fuel injection/computer systems technician and TPS and mass air flow sensors were the most common problems for this problem.

Larry

TPS and vacuum are big issues on the old BMW's that I like.

Mark

[Mike McCarthy]

> Best bet is the TPS sensor (throttle position sensor) as they get a wear spot near idle. > As you press on the accelerator you hit the faulty winding and the computer sees no > voltage so no added fuel flow until the sensor hits good wiring then it takes off. If the computer ever sees no voltage from a TPS then the OBDII will throw a standardized code. Period. OBDII is highly standardized by SAE. This stuff all started in the 60's when CA first started mandating emission control and, since Detroit ruled the world back then, three basic protocols emerged (GM, Ford, and Chrysler). Since the late 80s, and especially since 1996, the three standards have merged such that the differences are no longer relevant -- basically the OBDII port has a different mechanical configuration but that's about it. Electronically they are all the same, and they all rely on the same set of standardized codes. In addition, most manufactures add more layers of codes that are not part of the OBDII mandate but cover proprietary systems. Typically, those codes are part of universally available databases so, armed with a code reader (anywhere from $40-$400) you can typically read almost all codes resulting from any malfunction on any OBDII compliant model, no matter the manufacturer. The SAE standardized codes that are valid for all makes and models number in the hundreds, and more are being added all the time. Each manufacturer, in addition, can have product-line specific codes. VW/Audi, for example, has over 300 codes unique to their products, in addition to the mandated SAE universal codes. But, for complete accuracy, a Toyota dealer can read all codes from a Camry, etc. Eg, if the digital clock on your dash resets to 1PM every time you hit the left rear passenger window power button, there's probably a Toyota-specific code for that. Otherwise, codes are codes.